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Build Guide/Glassing Schedules

Glass & Lamination

Glassing Schedules

5 min read

How we glass your board determines how long it lasts.

The glassing schedule is the combination of fiberglass cloth weights and resin used on each surface of your board. It's one of the two most important decisions in a custom build โ€” the other being [foam density](/build-guide/foam-densities). Together they determine how long your board lasts, how it flexes, and how it ages over a decade of use.

This guide walks you through the cloths we use, the default schedules we ship with each board category, and the ways you can dial things lighter or heavier if you want a different feel.

Why Glassing Matters

Two boards with the same shape, same foam, same fin setup but different glassing schedules will feel like different boards a year into their life. A light-glassed board starts to flex more, pressure-dents faster, and eventually softens. A heavy-glassed board stays crisp, holds its lines, and rides the same in year ten as it did in year one.

We glass heavier than the industry default on every build. The extra half-pound to pound-and-a-half of cloth is the difference between a board you retire in three years and one you still ride in ten. Combined with a denser foam blank, the result is a board that resists pressure denting โ€” the thing that kills most surfboards long before the rider is ready to stop riding them.

Cloth Types We Use

E-Cloth is the industry-standard fiberglass cloth. Light, affordable, consistent, and the baseline most shops glass with. We use it on surfaces where durability demands are lower (sides, parts of the bottom) and as patch material.

S-Cloth (satin weave) is a premium cloth with a tighter, smoother weave than e-cloth. More durable, slightly heavier, cleaner final finish. We use it where e-cloth would normally go on most builds.

Warp Cloth is directional โ€” its strength runs nose-to-tail instead of evenly in all directions. This makes it ideal for reinforcing the core of the board against flex fatigue. Every Lundquist build uses warp cloth on at least one layer.

Volan Fiberglass is a green-tinted cloth historically used for patches and aesthetic reinforcement. A note on modern volan: the volan we can source in California is a dyed cloth rather than true vintage volan. Functionally it's close; aesthetically it's the same warm green-hued look under the finish. Volan patches are a customer-upgrade option on any board โ€” purely for the look.

Lundquist Default Schedules

Every board category ships with a default schedule. These are the specs we build to unless you ask for something different. Each is intentionally heavier than industry standard for the reasons covered above.

Traditional Longboards

  • Deck: 6oz warp + 6oz e-glass, with a 6oz e-glass deck patch
  • Bottom: 6oz warp + 6oz e-glass, with a 6oz e-glass tail patch

This is a heavy schedule, full stop. Combined with our Brown (Classic) foam default for logs, it's what lets these boards last decades and glide the way they do. Lighter schedules on longboards will dent faster and lose their ride characteristics sooner.

Mid-Lengths

  • Deck: 6oz warp + 4oz s-cloth
  • Bottom: 6oz warp + 6oz e-glass, with 6oz warp patches where the rider presses down

Mid-lengths flex a lot during normal use. Warp cloth top and bottom handles the flex without delaminating; the s-cloth deck keeps it slightly lighter than a longboard without compromising durability.

Shortboards

  • Deck: 6oz warp top, 4oz s-cloth sides
  • Bottom: 6oz warp + 6oz e-glass, with a 6oz warp tail patch

Industry default is 4oz e-cloth top + 6oz e-cloth bottom. Our schedule trades a small amount of weight for dramatically better dent resistance and a longer lifespan. The tail patch specifically handles the area that takes the most impact during turns.

Twin Fins

  • Deck: 6oz warp + 4oz s-cloth
  • Bottom: 6oz warp + 6oz e-glass, with reinforced fin box patches

Twins get hammered in turns โ€” the tail unweights and reloads constantly. The reinforced fin box area keeps them from developing stress cracks around the boxes over time.

Customizing Your Schedule

You can dial the schedule lighter or heavier on each surface independently. Here's what we'll build, in order from our default down to the lightest we recommend:

Deck weight options

  • 6+6oz warp + e-glass (default on longboards)
  • 6+4oz warp + s-cloth (default on shortboards, twins, mids; lightest on longboards)
  • 4oz single (lightest we'll build on shortboards)

Bottom weight options

  • 6+6oz warp + e-glass (default on all categories)
  • 6oz single (lightest we'll build on any board)

Patch options

  • 6oz e-glass patch (default on deck and tail)
  • 4oz patch (lighter option)
  • No patch (lightest build โ€” see below)

Lightest-possible-build alternative โ€” if you're chasing absolute minimum weight and want to skip the tail patch entirely, we can do clear fin-box patches only: a small oval reinforcement glassed around each fin box for structural integrity. The patch doesn't show under the finish but it protects the boxes from blowing out under load. This is how we keep the lightest builds from self-destructing.

Volan patch upgrade โ€” any tail patch can be upgraded to a volan patch for the classic green-hued aesthetic. It reads as a distinct warm green under the final resin coat. Purely visual at our sourcing, but a distinctive look that ages beautifully on a clear or transparent-tint board.

The Philosophy

I build every board heavier than the industry default because the small weight penalty buys you a board that:

  1. Flexes more predictably and feels the same on day 1 and year 10.
  2. Lasts significantly longer โ€” fewer cracks, fewer delams, much less pressure denting.
  3. Performs across a wider range of conditions without feeling tired or soft.
  4. Is barely heavier than the industry default โ€” typically 0.5 to 1.5 lbs more.

The glassing schedule and the foam density work together. A light glass on a light blank will dent, soften, and retire fast regardless of how the shape was cut. If you want a lighter board, we'll happily drop the schedule for you โ€” but we'll probably suggest going denser on the blank to compensate. Both decisions matter; neither one alone is the whole picture.

Build Guide

Browse all guides

Start Here

New to ordering a custom board? Read this first. A one-page orientation.

Read guide โ†’

Board Details Checklist

Everything we need from you to begin your custom build.

Read guide โ†’

Foam & Resin Types

Understanding the materials that make up your board's core and shell.

Read guide โ†’

Foam Densities

The density of your blank determines your board's weight and feel.

Read guide โ†’

Youโ€™re here

Glassing Schedules

How we glass your board determines how long it lasts.

Stringer Options

The wood running through your board โ€” functional and aesthetic.

Read guide โ†’

Resin Tint Opacities

Choose how much color coverage you want on your board.

Read guide โ†’

Airsprays

Custom painted designs that make your board one of a kind.

Read guide โ†’

Gloss + Polish vs Sanded Finish

The final touch that defines how your board looks and feels.

Read guide โ†’

Fin Box Options

Futures, FCS, glass-ons, and single fins โ€” what's right for your board.

Read guide โ†’

Through-Box Leash

The drill-through method โ€” leash attaches through the center fin box, no deck hardware.

Read guide โ†’

Glassed Leash Loop

The resin loop method โ€” a small fiberglass loop glassed onto the deck near the tail.

Read guide โ†’

Fins โ€” A Complete Guide

Single fins to thrusters, base systems, sizing by weight + wave, and how to pick across True Ames, NVS, Futures, and FCS.

Read guide โ†’

Fiberglass Weaves: What's in Your Board

E-glass, warp, S-glass, volan โ€” what each weave actually is and why we pay for premium glass.

Read guide โ†’

Fin Placement: A Lundquist Reference

Where the fins go is half the board's design. Hydrodynamics, the four levers, every standard configuration, and the McKee Quattro formula.

Read guide โ†’