Fins — A Complete Guide

Section 0 — Fin Selection in 60 Seconds (Easy Entry)

If you don't want to read the rest of this guide, here's the short version. Pick the path that matches you.

You bought a Lundquist board, you want fins to ride it tomorrow: Open your board's model page on lundquistsurfboards.com. Scroll to "Fin Setups & Recommendations." We list the fin we'd put on that board ourselves, in your fin box system, across four brands. Click the one that sounds right. We ship it.

You're not sure which fin system your board uses: Look at the bottom of your board near the tail. If you see one long center box, that's a Single Fin / Longboard box (10" universal). If you see two small black plugs per fin position, that's FCS II. If you see one slot per fin position with a clean rectangular opening, that's Futures. If your fins are permanently attached and won't come out, you have Glass-Ons.

You want a different ride out of a board you already love: Same fin box, different template. Going smaller and looser? Drop a size. Going bigger and more drive? Go up a size. Tight pocket pivots? Less rake. Long carving lines? More rake. Stiffer fin = more drive, flexier fin = more forgiveness.

You're a beginner: Bigger is safer. Pick the largest size in the recommended template family. You'll grow into the fin before you grow out of it.

The rest of this guide is the why behind those answers. Scroll for the full picture.

Section 1 — Fin Configurations

Configuration = how many fins, where they go, and how they relate to each other. The right configuration depends on the wave you're surfing, the board you're riding, and the feel you want.

Single Fin

One fin in the center, set back near the tail. The original surfboard fin. Single fins draw long, smooth lines. You don't pump a single fin — you trim it, find the sweet spot in the wave's energy, and let the board glide. Drawn-out bottom turns, smooth top turns, and a feeling of flow that disappears the moment you put a thruster underneath you.

Best for: Longboards, gliders, mid-lengths. Clean point breaks, peeling open faces, anywhere flow matters more than reaction time.

Lundquist models that ride single-fin stock: Black Pearl, Salt Burn, Lunada, Dutchman, Spectre, Legacy, Magic Carpet, Fantasma (single-fin or 2+1 customer choice).

The pivot vs rake decision (more on this in Section 4): single fins come in two primary geometries. Pivot fins are upright, narrow-base, narrow-tip — designed for tight noserider turns where you stall the board and pivot off the tail. Raked fins are wider-base, swept-back — designed for drive and projection through longer turns. Most longboards work with either; the choice is style. Pivot for traditional log surfing, rake for a faster all-rounder.

Twin Fin

Two fins, one on each rail, no center fin. Twin fins are fast. Without a center fin parking in the middle of the board, water flows uninterrupted between the two rail fins, the board planes earlier, and the tail releases with less resistance. Twins feel skatey, free, alive. You give up some hold in steep walls — there's nothing locking the tail in — but in waist-to-head clean surf, that release is the point.

Twin fins reward extra length. A 5'10" twin paddles and surfs like a shortboard rider's 5'8" thruster, with more wave-catching, more glide between turns. Most twin riders go up 2–4 inches on length and 1–2 liters on volume from their daily-driver shortboard.

Best for: Knee-high to slightly overhead clean surf. Skatey, speed-first riding. Down-the-line point work. Smaller-wave grovel sessions where a shortboard would bog.

Lundquist twin-fin models: Pin Twin, Revenant, Salt Burn, Suds, Duppy, Boomerang, Half-Moon, Gold, Aardvark (twinzer), Acid-Drop.

Twin fin sub-categories:

• Fish Twins — wide outline boards. Pair with wide-base, low-rake "keel" templates. Hobie Fish Keels and Wayne Rich Nightmare Keels are the classic references; True Ames carries both. Drive-forward feel, big sweeping turns, hold through the rail.
• Performance Twins — modern outlines (Pin Twin, Revenant). Pair with upright, performance fin templates. True Ames High Pro Twin, Lovelace Twin. Quicker, more vertical feel than fish twins, with the speed of a twin still on tap.
• Hybrid Twins — split the difference. Fuller than performance twin templates, less swept than keels. Ryan Burch Twin, Furrow Twin. Versatile in waves where you can't decide if you want speed or vertical surfing.

Thruster (Tri-Fin)

Three fins — two on the rails plus one in the center — tail. Invented by Simon Anderson in 1980, thruster geometry has been the dominant configuration in performance surfing for 45 years. The center fin gives you hold and drive that twins can't match; the rail fins give you turn-on-a-dime maneuverability that single fins can't touch. The thruster is the answer when the conditions don't have an obvious answer.

If you only own one board, ride a thruster. The setup covers more ground than any other.

Best for: Waist-high to triple-overhead. Beach breaks, point breaks, reefs, contests, free surfs. The default.

Lundquist thruster models: Innuendo, Gumball, Five Horizons, Scorpio, 2nd to None, Esplanade, Sea Bottom, Wanted, Moon Shine, Big Joe, Apparition, Lasso, Popsicle Stick, Big Buoy, Hiatus, Bang!, Talisman Step Up.

Thruster sub-categories:

• High-Performance Thrusters — small to medium fins, moderate rake, stiff bases. Fins push back hard, project through turns, hold through hollow sections. FCS Performer, Futures DHD, True Ames High Pro.
• All-Around Thrusters — medium fins, balanced flex. Forgiving in marginal surf, capable when it gets good. FCS Reactor, Futures AM2.
• Small-Wave Thrusters — smaller fins, more flex. Generate speed through pumping, looser in mush. FCS PC-7, Futures Vapor.

2+1 (Single Fin + Sidebites)

A center single fin in a longboard box, plus two smaller "sidebite" fins flanking it on the rails. The most versatile setup in surfing. Run all three fins for hold and drive in head-high+ surf. Pull the sidebites and ride pure single-fin glide on small clean days. Same board, two different rides.

The center fin is in a longboard box (10" universal), so you can swap it for any single fin you own. The sidebites are typically Futures or FCS II.

Best for: Mid-lengths, longboards. Customers who want one board to do everything. Travelers who want flexibility without a quiver.

Lundquist 2+1 models: Fantasma (longboard, customer choice between single-fin and 2+1), Esplanade, Sea Bottom (mid-lengths default to 2+1).

Quad

Four fins — two on each rail, no center fin. Quads generate speed like a twin (no center-fin drag) but hold like a thruster (rear fins engage in the wave face). Quads excel in two extremes: small gutless surf where every bit of speed matters, and hollow tube-riding where the rear fins lock you into the face.

Quad fin placement matters more than template choice. Forward-set quads (rear fin closer to the front fin) feel like a fast twin. Back-set quads (rear fin closer to the tail) feel like a stiff thruster. Most Lundquist quads are configured back-set unless requested otherwise.

Best for: Small surf speed sessions, hollow beach breaks and reefs, tube-riding boards.

Lundquist quad-capable models: Most performance shortboards (Innuendo, Five Horizons, Scorpio) accept 5-fin boxes that let you run thruster or quad. Custom-only quad-specific models on request.

5-Fin

Five fin boxes total — two front rail, two rear rail, one center. You ride it as either a thruster (front + center + rear-on-the-side) or a quad (all four rail fins, center fin out). The most flexibility you can put under your feet. Most modern shortboards from major brands ship 5-fin so the customer doesn't have to commit.

Lundquist offers 5-fin on any custom thruster or quad-capable model. Standard upcharge applies (see custom pricing).

Twinzer

Twin fin in front, plus two tiny "canard" fins set just inside and forward of each rail fin. The canards re-direct water flow into the main twin fins, giving you more hold than a standard twin without losing the twin's release. A niche setup, mostly seen on retro fish-style boards.

Best for: Customers who want twin-fin speed but feel like standard twins lose hold. Wider-outline fish-style boards.

Lundquist twinzer model: Aardvark.

Bonzer

Three or five fins in a complex layout designed by the Campbell Brothers in the early 1970s. The standard Bonzer has a single center fin plus two long, low rail "runners" that channel water flow under the board. The 5-fin Bonzer adds two smaller front rail fins. Bonzers are fast, drivey, and unique-feeling — they accelerate in flat sections in a way no other setup matches. True Ames is the primary Bonzer fin manufacturer.

Best for: Specialty boards designed around Bonzer flow patterns. Not a setup you retrofit into a standard thruster shape.

Lundquist Bonzer models: Five Horizons (when ordered as Bonzer config — see model page).

Asymmetrical Fins

Boards with intentional asymmetry between the toe-side and heel-side rails ride asymmetrical fin setups: typically a larger twin-style fin on the toe-side rail (for speed and drive) and a smaller, more pivot-style fin on the heel-side rail (for tighter turning radius in the pocket). Asymmetrical fins live in their own category — they're built specifically for asymmetrical boards and don't slot into normal thruster or twin lineups.

Best for: Asymmetrical boards. Niche.

Lundquist asymmetrical models: None standard. Custom-only on request.

Finless

Zero fins. Often called "alaia" or "displacement-hull" surfing. The board itself does the directional work via rail bevels and tail outline. A specialist's ride — the learning curve is steep and the conditions need to be specific (clean walls, no chop). Mentioned here for completeness; Lundquist doesn't ship finless boards as standard inventory.

Section 2 — Fin Box Systems (and Why Base Compatibility Matters More Than You Think)

The fin box is the connection between the fin and the board. Get this wrong and the fin won't fit. Customers have been ordering fins that don't fit their board for years because vendors bury the base format in small print. This section is the truth.

The four base formats

1. Single Fin / Longboard Box (10" universal) The original. One long rectangular box, 10 inches long, with a screw-in plate that holds the fin in place via a single bolt and slide-tab system. Universal across brands — a True Ames pivot fin, a Lovelace rake fin, a vintage 1970s log fin, and your buddy's hand-shaped favorite all fit the same box. If your board has a single longboard box, you have the most options of any fin box system.

2. Futures Single-Tab A proprietary Futures-brand box. Fin has a single tab on the bottom that slides into a slot in the board. Tightened with a screw on the front of the fin, accessed from the top of the board. Cleanest aesthetic of the side-fin systems — no plugs visible from the top. Comes in two standard sizes; the smaller (3/4" tab) is the default for thruster, twin, quad, and most modern fin systems. Larger (full-base) is rare.

3. FCS II Modern FCS. Two small plugs per fin position, set into the bottom of the board. Fin compresses and clicks into place via a spring-loaded base mechanism. No screws, no tools. Fastest install of any system. Massive template selection — FCS has the largest fin catalog on the market.

4. FCS OG (Original) Pre-2014 FCS. Same two-plug layout as FCS II, but the fin base is different geometry. An FCS OG fin will not seat properly in an FCS II box without an adapter. Most FCS templates have been redesigned for FCS II base, but a lot of legacy fins (and most True Ames + NVS twin-tab fins) still use the FCS OG format.

Base coverage by brand

True Ames and NVS both offer most templates across all five box formats — single-fin box, Futures, FCS II, FCS OG, and glass-on — which is why they're our first recommendation when a customer wants flexibility. Futures-brand fins fit only Futures boxes (no cross-system compatibility). FCS makes fins primarily for FCS II, with most FCS OG legacy templates discontinued. All four brands support the standard 10" longboard single-fin box.

The FCS Infill Kit (sold by Lundquist)

If you buy a True Ames or NVS fin in the FCS OG base format and your board has FCS II boxes, the fin won't seat properly without an adapter. The FCS Infill Kit is that adapter — a small plastic insert that takes up the gap between the OG base and the II box, locking the fin in solid.

We stock the FCS Infill Kit at the shop. Every product page for an FCS OG fin shows a one-click upsell to add the kit to your cart. If you're buying an FCS OG fin and you're not sure if your board has II or OG boxes, look at the box plug shape — FCS II plugs are slightly more rectangular with a visible spring mechanism. FCS OG plugs are simpler and rounder. Or ask Blake.

Glass-Ons

Glass-on fins are permanently glassed onto the board with fiberglass cloth and resin. No fin box, no removable parts. The fin becomes structural to the board.

Advantages: Lightest possible weight (no box hardware). Best flex characteristic — the fin base is integrated into the board, no break in the flex pattern. Cleanest aesthetic. Quietest on the wave (no rattling box hardware).

Disadvantages: You can't change fins. Ever. If you break a glass-on, it's a real repair job — saw out the broken fin, glass on a new one, refinish. Not practical for boards where you might want to experiment.

Best for: Special builds, signage boards, surfers who know exactly which fin they want and won't change. Available on any custom Lundquist order.

Section 3 — Fin Anatomy (What These Numbers Actually Mean)

Every fin spec sheet lists base length, depth, area, sweep, foil, flex. Here's what each one does to your ride.

Template

The overall outline of the fin — base length, depth, rake, tip shape, area distribution — combined into one design. Think of the template as the fin's "shape." Two fins with identical area can ride radically differently if their templates are different. Template is the most important spec, and it's why fin makers have signature template lines (True Ames Greenough, Futures DHD Series, FCS Performer Series).

Base Length

The length of the fin's bottom edge — the part that sits flat against the board. Longer base = more drive (the fin pushes water further back through a turn, accelerating the board). Shorter base = looser tail (the fin doesn't anchor the rear of the board as much, easier to break free).

Performance shortboard fins typically run 4.20–4.65" base. Small-wave fins go shorter (3.90–4.10"). Twin fin keels run long bases (5.00–5.50"). Single fins for longboards range 4.50–5.50" base depending on template.

Depth (Height)

The distance from the base of the fin to the tip. Taller fin = more hold (more surface area engages with the water). Shorter fin = looser feel (less surface area, easier to slide).

Bigger surfers and powerful waves need more depth. Smaller surfers and mushy surf benefit from less. Most performance shortboard fins run 4.50–4.80" deep. Single fins for longboards run 7.00–10.00" deep depending on style.

Area

Total square area of the fin face. Calculated from base × depth × area distribution coefficient. More area = more hold and drive. Less area = looser, faster release. Most fin manufacturers categorize fins by area — Small (under 14 sq in for thruster), Medium (14–16 sq in), Large (16–18 sq in), XL (over 18 sq in).

Match fin area to rider weight and wave size. The Futures, FCS, and True Ames sizing charts (covered in Section 5) are the practical guide.

Rake (Sweep)

How far back the fin tip leans from the base. Measured in degrees from vertical. More rake = drawn-out, sweeping turns. Less rake (more upright) = tight pivots and quick direction changes.

• Pivot fins (under 25° rake): designed for tight pocket turns, classic noseriding stalls. Greenough single fins, traditional log fins.
• Balanced rake (25°–35°): all-around performance. Most modern thruster and quad templates.
• Raked fins (35°+): drawn-out turns, point break carves, projection through long walls. CI Bonzer rakes, classic '70s single fins.

Foil

The cross-sectional shape of the fin — how thick it is at the leading edge, the middle, and the trailing edge, and how that thickness is distributed.

Most side fins (twins, thrusters, quads) have a flat-foil inside (the rail-facing side is flat) and a curved-foil outside (the water-facing side is contoured like an airplane wing). The asymmetric foil generates lift toward the rail, helping the fin hold and drive.

Center fins in thrusters and 2+1s typically run a symmetric foil — both sides curved equally. Symmetric foils are neutral, with no preferred direction. The center fin doesn't lean one way or the other.

Single fins in longboards run a wider variety of foils: 50/50 (fully symmetric, smoothest flow), 80/20 or 70/30 (asymmetric, more drive on one side), 100% flat-on-one-side (very directional, traditional). A 50/50 fin gives the smoothest, most predictable ride.

Flex

How much the fin tip moves under load. Stiff fins drive hard and project through turns — energy goes into the wave, not into bending the fin. Flexy fins absorb chop, pump speed efficiently, and forgive choppy or imperfect technique.

Heavier surfers and powerful waves favor stiffer fins. Lighter surfers and small-wave sessions benefit from flex.

Material drives flex more than template (covered in Section 4 Construction). A True Ames Performance Glass fin has very different flex than a Futures Techflex fin in the same template.

Toe (Toe-In)

The inward angle of the side fins. Side fins point slightly toward the nose — typically 1° to 6° of toe. More toe = more responsive (water hits the inside foil faster, board redirects quicker). Less toe = more drive (less drag, more straight-line speed).

Toe is set by the fin box angle in the board, not adjustable on the fin itself. Lundquist sets toe per shape based on model intent.

Cant

The outward lean of the side fins from vertical — typically 0° to 10° of cant. More cant = looser, more skatey feel (fin tips lean out, board pivots easier). Less cant = stiffer, more direct drive (fins are closer to vertical, push more directly back).

Like toe, cant is set by the fin box, not the fin. Most modern thrusters run 4°–7° cant. Quads run less (often 3°–5°). Single fins run 0° (vertical).

Section 4 — Construction & Materials

The same fin template rides differently in different materials. Construction affects flex, weight, durability, price, and feel. Here's the landscape.

Performance Glass / Fiberglass (True Ames, NVS, custom shops)

Hand-laid fiberglass with epoxy resin. The original modern fin material and still the gold standard for feel. Stiff base, gradual flex pattern up the fin, lively response. Heavier than composite fins but transmits feedback to your feet better. True Ames hand-laminates every fiberglass fin in Santa Barbara — you can see the cloth pattern in the fin.

Best for: Riders who want classic feel. Pivot single fins. Twin-fin keels. Anyone who values fiberglass's predictable flex over weight savings.

Honeycomb (FCS, Futures)

Polypropylene or polyethylene honeycomb core sandwiched between fiberglass skins. Lightweight, with stiffness concentrated in the base and progressive flex toward the tip. Lower price than fiberglass. The most common construction in the modern thruster era.

Brand variants: FCS PC (Performance Core), Futures Honeycomb, Futures Vapor.

Best for: All-around performance shortboard fins. Travelers (lighter = less luggage weight). Riders who want predictable, balanced flex without paying full fiberglass premium.

Techflex / Carbon Composite (Futures)

Honeycomb core with carbon fiber reinforcement layers. Stiffer than honeycomb alone, with a snappy flex response. The carbon adds drive without adding weight.

Best for: Powerful surfers, larger waves, riders who want maximum projection through turns.

Blackstix (Futures)

Honeycomb core with a glass-bead-impregnated outer skin. Slightly more flex than standard honeycomb, with a smooth release. Distinctive black aesthetic.

Best for: Smooth-flowing surfers, point break sessions, riders who want flex without sacrificing drive.

RTM Hex / Hex (FCS)

Resin Transfer Molded hexagonal-pattern core. FCS's premium-construction line. Lighter than PC, stiffer than honeycomb-only. The hex pattern provides structural rigidity with minimum material.

Best for: Performance shortboard fins where weight matters. Competition surfing.

NeoGlass (FCS)

Recycled-glass-and-resin construction. Lower-cost FCS line, slightly stiffer flex than PC, durable. Entry-level price point.

Best for: Budget-conscious riders, beach-break beginners and intermediates.

Volcanic / V2 / Eco-Series (Futures)

Futures' eco-conscious construction lines. Volcanic uses volcanic basalt fiber as a glass alternative. V2 uses recycled materials. Performance varies by line; check product page for specific construction notes.

Carbon (multiple brands)

Solid carbon fiber construction. Stiffest available. Aggressive drive, almost no flex. Premium price.

Best for: Heavy surfers in powerful waves. Tow-in boards. Specialty applications.

Glass-On / Custom Hand-Laminated (Lundquist + select)

Hand-laminated fiberglass fins glassed permanently onto the board. Built specifically per-board by the laminator (Greg, on Lundquist boards). Tuned flex and foil per-board. The most custom option available — and the most permanent.

Section 5 — Sizing (Match Fin to Rider and Wave)

The general rule: bigger surfer or bigger wave = bigger fin. Smaller surfer or smaller wave = smaller fin. Here's the practical chart.

Thruster sizing (rider weight)

Reference templates: FCS Reactor, Futures AM2, True Ames High Pro Thruster.

• Under 130 lb runs XS (FCS Reactor XS, Futures Honeycomb 3-Fin).
• 130–155 lb runs S (FCS Reactor S, Futures AM1).
• 155–185 lb runs M (FCS Reactor M, Futures AM2, True Ames HP M).
• 185–210 lb runs L (FCS Reactor L, Futures AM3, True Ames HP L).
• Over 210 lb runs XL (FCS Reactor XL, Futures Stretch XL).

Wave-size adjustment

Add or subtract one size from the rider-weight baseline based on wave conditions:

• Small / mushy waves: drop one size for looseness and speed generation.
• Solid head-high to overhead: stay on size.
• Overhead to triple-overhead, powerful: go up one size for hold and drive.

Twin fin sizing

Twins generally run larger than thrusters because twin riders rely more on each fin (no center fin to share load). Match the rider weight to a thruster size, then go up one. Example: a 175 lb rider is M in thrusters, runs L in twins.

For fish-style keels: True Ames Hobie Fish Keel is one-size-fits-most for boards up to 6'4". Above 6'4" or rider over 200 lb, look at the larger keel templates (CI Twin, Wayne Rich Nightmare).

Quad sizing

Front quad fins match the corresponding thruster size. Rear quad fins are typically smaller — the manufacturer specs the matched rear size for each front. Don't mix-and-match brands or sizes on a quad without specific guidance.

Single fin sizing (longboards)

Length and template dictate size. Reference points:

• Traditional logs (9'0"–9'8"): 9.5" to 10.5" pivot fin.
• All-around longboards (9'2"–10'0"): 8.5" to 9.5" balanced or raked single fin.
• High-performance longboards (8'6"–9'4"): 7.5" to 9.0" raked single fin.
• Mid-lengths in 2+1 with stock single (7'0"–8'6"): 7.5" to 8.5" center fin.

Personal preference plays a bigger role on single fins than on shortboard sets. Bigger fin = more hold, slower response. Smaller fin = looser, more responsive.

Section 6 — Brand Profiles

The four brands Lundquist sells, with what each does best.

True Ames

Hand-made fiberglass fins from Santa Barbara, California. The smallest of the four brands, the most flexible to work with for one-off custom orders, and the most committed to fiberglass craft. Every True Ames fin is laminated by hand — you can see the cloth in the fin, and they offer special-order custom colors and templates.

True Ames signature templates: - Greenough Single Fins (4A, 4B, 4C, Stage 6, Stage 7) — the original raked single-fin family. The reason every modern raked log fin owes a debt to George Greenough. - Pivot Fins — flex pattern designed for noseriding. The traditional choice for log surfers who hang ten. - Hobie Fish Keel — the definitive fish-twin keel. Long, low rake, deep base. If you ride a fish-style twin, this is the starting point. - Wayne Rich Nightmare Keel — modernized fish-keel template. Longer rake, slightly more drive than the Hobie. - High Pro Twin — performance twin fin in a True Ames foil. The choice for modern twins that want to surf vertically. - CI Twin — designed for Channel Islands twin-fin shapes; works on most modern twins. - Lovelace Twin — Joel Tudor / Tyler Warren collaboration. Hybrid template, full base, moderate rake. - Speed Dialer — fish-quad template. Forward-set quad sizing. - Piggyback Quad — performance-quad template, back-set sizing.

Base offerings: All True Ames templates available in single-fin box, FCS II, FCS OG, Futures, and as glass-ons. Most templates are also available in multiple sizes and one-off custom dimensions.

Why we recommend True Ames first: Easiest brand to order one-offs through. Genuine fiberglass feel. Templates that aren't available elsewhere.

NVS (North Village Surf)

Small-shop fin manufacturer with direct-order custom capability. Best known for performance fiberglass fins and template variety. NVS has an active relationship with several pro shapers, so their template line refreshes more frequently than the legacy brands.

NVS strengths: - Hand-foiled performance fiberglass fins. - Custom-template orders accepted directly from shapers and shops. - Multiple base offerings (similar to True Ames). - Fast turnaround on small batches.

Why we keep NVS in the lineup: Templates that don't exist anywhere else. Small-shop responsiveness.

Futures Fins

The largest of the four brands and the one with the most pro-team-driven template development. Futures uses a proprietary single-tab base — Futures fins fit only Futures boxes (no cross-compatibility with FCS systems).

Futures signature template families: - AM Series (AM1, AM2, AM3) — Al Merrick / Channel Islands collaboration thrusters. The benchmark all-around thruster template. - DHD Series — Darren Handley collaborations. High-performance pro-template thrusters. - JJF Series — John John Florence collaborations. Powerful, stiff, drive-forward. - Honeycomb / Vapor / Volcanic — material lines (see Section 4). - Stretch Series — quad templates, multiple sizes.

Construction lines: Honeycomb (entry), Techflex (mid), Volcanic / V2 (premium / eco), Carbon (top-end).

Why we sell Futures: Pro-template depth. If a customer rides Futures boxes, they almost certainly want a Futures-brand fin. Best-in-class for performance shortboard sets.

FCS / FCS II

The largest fin brand globally and the dominant fin-box system in modern surfboards. FCS II is the modern click-in system; FCS Original is the legacy plug-and-screw system.

FCS signature template families: - Reactor — entry to mid-tier all-around thruster. - Performer / Performer PC — the high-volume all-arounder. The most-shipped FCS template. - PC Carver / PC-7 — small-wave, small-fin templates. Speed-generation focus. - Mick Fanning Signature (MF) — performance pro template. Stiff, drive-forward. - Kelly Slater Signature (KS) — performance pro template. Mid-flex, all-around. - Mark Richards Signature (MR Twin) — the original modern performance twin template.

Construction lines: NeoGlass (entry / eco), PC Performance Core (mid), RTM Hex (premium), Carbon (top-end).

Why we sell FCS: Most boards in the world have FCS II boxes. Customers come in wanting FCS-brand fins for FCS-brand boxes. We respect that.

Section 7 — Per-Model Recommendations

Every Lundquist [model page](/models) lists specific fin recommendations across all four brands, with Blake's shop pick (the fin he'd put on that board himself). Browse models and scroll to "Fin Setups & Recommendations."

This guide gives you the framework. The model page gives you the answer for that specific board.

Section 8 — Blake's Take

Forty-plus models, four fin brands, a hundred templates, multiple constructions. The decision tree is real. Here's the truth I tell every customer:

The fin matters less than people think. Most riders feel a 70% difference between fin sizes and a 10% difference between top-tier templates within the same size. If you're picking between two well-reputed templates from different brands, the choice that matters most is whether the fin fits your fin box, fits your weight, and fits the wave you're surfing tomorrow.

Buy the fin that gets you in the water faster. A True Ames in 10 days beats a sold-out Futures in 6 weeks. We handle every fin order ourselves — we order from the manufacturer, QC it when it lands here, then ship it to you in Lundquist packaging. Adds a few days vs. ordering direct from the manufacturer, but you get a fin we've checked and a clean unboxing experience. When one brand goes out of stock, we'll route you to the next-best alternative on the spot.

Glass-ons are forever. If you're not 100% certain on the fin, don't glass it on. Buy boxes, ride a few different fins, then glass on what you love.

If you're new to a fin system or new to a board: Stay middle-of-the-road on size and construction. Once you have your reference, then experiment.

If you're stuck: [Email Blake](/contact). We'll pick a fin together.